Austria Ski Vacations: Schuss, There It Is

NIEDERAU, Austria -- Over the past two decades in Europe, I've hit the slopes in France, Italy, Switzerland and Austria. I've skied asbachelor, as part of a couple and now as a father with three children.

My verdict is clear: The best European skiing destination is Austria.

It offers more than enough vertical descent and white stuff on the mountains and the most après-ski charm, with even, arguably, the best food and wine.

Perhaps most important in these days of the weak dollar, Austria represents the most affordable Alpine destination. Our recent 10-day family trip over the New Year holidays cost only about $2,500 for lodging, lifts, ski rentals and food.

Locating an Austrian bargain is easy. Web sites such as Tiscover and Tyrolian Tours can be helpful.

On this trip, we stayed in the village of Niederau, near the famed resort of Kitzbuhel. Our apartment was located in a renovated farmhouse, two kilometers outside the village center, at the top of a steep, winding road that opened up onto a magnificent mountain vista.

Max Schellhorn, the owner, still milks cows in the morning. He also is a part-time ski instructor. Much of his income these days comes from tourism. He and his wife Karin greeted us with a glass of local sparkling wine. He had sleds for his own child and lent them to us. One evening, his mother, who also lives on the farm, baked bread with my children. Another day, she invited them to make fresh butter.