In Sultry Spain, Visiting the 'New' Madrid

For better or worse, Madrid has lagged other world capitals in acquiring an international flavor. But in the last few years, this stately city has caught up fast, thanks to the steadfast transformation of a once-seedy downtown area into a shopping, dining and nightlife district.

Downtown Madrid's revival started in the '90s, when entrepreneurial gay couples turned the dilapidated Chueca neighborhood into a hip nighttime hangout. Eventually Chueca went mainstream, and it continues to draw restaurants, art galleries, stylish hotels and boutiques.

It also expanded to the north, east and west, encompassing the neighborhoods of Malasana and Justicia (the whole district loosely falls within the rectangle formed by the Gran Via, Paseo de Recoletos, Calle de San Bernardo and Calle Sagasta).

After visiting the Spanish capital's most emblematic sights, like the Museo del Prado or the Plaza Mayor, and savoring tapas and pints at old school joints such as Los Gatos (Calle de Jesús 2; +34/914-293-067), check out the "new" Madrid.

Here are some recommendations:

EAT

Home Burger Bar. When this retro-style diner opened last year in Malasana, it fostered a trend new to Spain: gourmet organic burgers. There's the "Cabrita," with goat cheese, cranberry sauce and mixed greens, or the "Caprichosa," with onion marmalade and brie cheese. It's good stuff, and lunch for two is about $30. Calle Espiritu Santo 12. +34/915-229-728.

Nina. On a busy and quaint MalasanÞa street, Nina has become the go-to place for expats, tourists, and anyone looking for a well-rounded international menu in a stylish atmosphere (exposed brick, plush bench seats, bold flower arrangements). The sirloin steak is flawless, and the chicken paillard with foie gras and risotto is a standout. Dinner for two will be about $100. Calle Manuela Malasana 10; +34/915-910-046.